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Ball return

For discussion of Solid State Pinball machines

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Magicland
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Ball return

Post Author: Magicland » Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:32 pm

The ball return doesn't seem to be working on my Bally Midway "Lady Luck". Anybody have any ideas what I can check to see if I can figure out why?

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Post Author: lompoker » Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:18 am

Hello Magic,
It's been a really long time since I worked pinball. When I did, I found that the contacts on the switch, that activates the solenoid, would have carbon build-up from arcing.
The solenoid may have gone bad: use a VOM and test for an open using OHMs, then change it over to DCV to see if you have voltage to the solenoid (might have to hit the switch to close the contacts a few times).

If it's carbon, like an old set of car points, drag some fine sandpaper between the contacts.

You might be better off waiting to see if anyone else can give better ideas.
Sorry Kevin... http://www.GameRoomRepair.com
Parts 1999 and 2002 (reels, hoppers and mainboards).
Manuals: http://www.pachislodb.com/bb2/viewtopic.php?t=1357
Great book for newbies: https://pachislodb.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4342

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Post Author: Magicland » Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:12 am

Considering I've never been inside a pinball machine before last night, any help is appreciated. Today's mission is to test the outhole kicker (I'm learning the terms as I go along), and if its getting voltage and not working, to see if I can figure out how to pull it out of the machine. It seems to be between the playfield and the apron, but there must be some way to remove it.

If it turns out it's defective, any idea if these things are usually replaced, or if just the solenoid is?

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Post Author: lompoker » Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:03 am

I have a 1969 Zip-A-Do and to get inside, I have to remove a front plate that locks the glass top in place, then I have to slide the glass out to lift the playfield.

Once inside you can lok at and test anything you want. If you do find a problem, you can check with a local arcade to see where they get their parts or surf the web.

http://thearcadeboneyard.com/
Sorry Kevin... http://www.GameRoomRepair.com
Parts 1999 and 2002 (reels, hoppers and mainboards).
Manuals: http://www.pachislodb.com/bb2/viewtopic.php?t=1357
Great book for newbies: https://pachislodb.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4342

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Post Author: Arraking » Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:59 am

Magic whats not working about it?
There is a switch that closes when the ball is waiting to be put into play, have you checked it for proper adjustment? Are the contacts clean...
Does the solenoid that kick's the ball into play work?

Other than that, I don't know a lot about electronic machines.
But I'm sure it has a circuit to control the ball kicker. Problem is working on some of these can actually cause more issues if your not carefull.

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Post Author: Magicland » Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:43 pm

I've figured out about the release lever inside the door that lets you remove the top plate, and after removing the glass I can lift the playfield (it's even got a "kickstand" to keep it lifted). When I get home I'll have to do a bit more testing, couldn't find the clips for my multimeter leads, so I picked up a new set today on the way in to work. Managed to download the manual, so hopefully that'll help as well.

If I manually place the ball into play, it seems to be working fairly well with the exception of the drop targets. If I manually reset them, they drop just fine when hit, but then never seem to come back up, so I guess that'll be next on the agenda after I get the outhole kicker working again. Other than that, everything seems to be registering points that should, so hopefully its just a few minor kinks that need worked out.

The machine's been worked on before, by one of the guys that does work for the Pinball museum down in Asbury Park, so if I can't figure things out, I can always give that a try, but that would take all the fun out of it.

I figure I might as well order a new set of rubbers while I'm at it.

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Post Author: LOU » Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:59 pm

Probably should replace the ball when you change the rubbers; buy some extra bulbs (I think 47s--but the King or Gman can confirm); and change the batteries behind the backglass. Should be done once a year needed or not---date them. I think it's Novus #2 to use on the playfield so you might wish to include that in your parts order--after doublechecking.
To play or not to play, that is the question.

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Post Author: Magicland » Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:02 pm

Well, it took all of my mechanical and electrical prowess, but after replacing a 1A slow blow fuse, both the outhole kicker AND the drop targets are working. Already ordered a set of rubbers, some new balls and have Novus #2 already on hand. I've got a couple of bulbs out (maybe 3), so I'll have to see what size they are and order some.

Hard to believe the guy who sold it was an electrician and didn't realize it had a blown fuse. Oh well, I'm not complaining!
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Post Author: Arraking » Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:27 pm

Nice! I always liked a quick fix :lol:
Good to see you have rubbers comin, and some balls. Make sure those balls are clean and not rusted or scratched.
Also check the batterys in the light box, make sure they don't leak. That would not be a good thing.

I bought some balls from Happ, years back and sent them all back! They were all rusted, and scratched, even dented!
I told the salesman those were junk.. He agreed when he saw them.

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Post Author: Magicland » Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:24 pm

Well, the balls are supposed to be new, so hopefully they will be. Nothing worse than old, rusty balls!

Also have a new set of locks coming, the one on the backbox had been drilled out, and there's no key for the one on the coin door. Altogether it should run me less than $350 for a nice working machine. Doesn't have quite the personality that the old EM games did, but it seems a lot less confusing to work with for a newbie.

I sort of like the artwork, very 80's looking, and most important, my girlfriend likes it.

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Post Author: lompoker » Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:31 pm

Oh and check the fuses.

The wife fed me a heavy meal so I'm running a slow.

Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Nice game!
Sorry Kevin... http://www.GameRoomRepair.com
Parts 1999 and 2002 (reels, hoppers and mainboards).
Manuals: http://www.pachislodb.com/bb2/viewtopic.php?t=1357
Great book for newbies: https://pachislodb.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4342

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Post Author: Magicland » Tue Jun 14, 2011 12:47 pm

Need to pick up like 4 bulbs (555?). Has anyone used the LED replacements? Are they usually that nasty LED blue-white, or are they the nicer warm color that's closer to incandescent?

I've been in reprogramming the machine, managed to get a lot nicer sounds out of it (at first it was just dinging and chiming), and I've got the actual high score showing rather than the default one (which I haven't reached yet). Pretty neat, it's got a keypad which you can take out of the machine to program it, a lot easier than dip switches.

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Post Author: Arraking » Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:54 pm

I would just go with lamps, as you said I think they would be kinda blusish white for the LEDs.

I bought some chrome Ball Bearings, 1-1/16", they looked really sharp roling around the play field! They would scratch, but it took time.

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Post Author: lompoker » Wed Jun 15, 2011 12:03 am

PM me with an address and I'll drop you some 555 in the mail. I needed 6 so I ordered 6. Didn't read the fine print, got 6 boxes.
Sorry Kevin... http://www.GameRoomRepair.com
Parts 1999 and 2002 (reels, hoppers and mainboards).
Manuals: http://www.pachislodb.com/bb2/viewtopic.php?t=1357
Great book for newbies: https://pachislodb.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4342

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Post Author: Arraking » Wed Jun 15, 2011 12:03 pm

Whoops! Yea they most always sell them in box's of ten..

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Post Author: Magicland » Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:53 am

Replaced the rubbers, though the replacement set seemed to be missing one post rubber (the little tiny one that just barely seems to have a hole in it. It came with 2, but it looks like I need 3. At least I have the 2 new ones on the posts on the out lanes, the other one goes up by one of the pop bumpers and probably isn't critical.

I've got a spinner that doesn't seem to be registering points, and after running the self-tests, solenoid 7 didn't seem to do anything, though looking in the manual that's supposedly the solenoid for "bright lights". I've no idea what that is or is supposed to do. At least most of the game is functioning properly, and those few remaining items gives me something to play around with!

Supposedly the USPS was attempting to deliver my pinballs to Irvington, NJ yesterday. I don't know why, as I don't live there, and they're not addressed to there. Obviously, they weren't able to. No idea when they'll actually get here.

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Post Author: Magicland » Sat Jun 18, 2011 8:13 pm

Got my balls! They're also sending me the post rubber that I was missing. Also got my new locks, though the backbox seems to need a different tab. Going to have to see if I can modify one to work. Seems to need something with a hook that will go over a post on the backbox glass.

Just FYI, replaced the volume control (5K pot which didn't seem to actually control the volume except from loud - off) with a 25 ohm rheostat from Radio Shack, which works QUITE well. I figured maybe 500 ohm, but they didn't have anything less than 5K.

Other than the rollunder that doesn't seem to be doing anything, it seems to be pretty much rehabbed and working fine!

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Post Author: Arraking » Sun Jun 19, 2011 9:27 am

Take a look at the contacts for the roll under, if it has leaf switch's.
Or does it use a regular switch.
Use the ohm setting on your DVM to see if it's the switch that's bad. Unplug it from the circuit first.

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Post Author: Magicland » Tue Jun 21, 2011 8:50 pm

Adjusted the leaf switch, now it's working fine. Thought I was having a problem with the sound (which was why I replaced the pot), but I think it had something to do with the battery. After I'd have the machine off for a few days, the sound wouldn't work, or would work intermittently, but after being on for a few days worked better. Then when it was off for a few days it lost all the memory. Replaced the board mounted ni-cad with a modified AA holder (3 and a rectifier diode) mounted to the side of the back box, and the sound has worked fine ever since. Reprogrammed the machine, and it's good as new. Even got the missing post rubber in the mail today. Not a bad little introductory project!

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Post Author: Arraking » Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:09 am

Hey there you go! I thought I had mentioned something about the battery's in the back box, but looking back I didn't :scratch:

Oh well you figued the problem out. Just keep an eye on those battery's, don't let them leak.
That was a big problem years back, batterys would leak, and damage circuit boards in the process.

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